Below is a couple of photo's, the first shows you the new solid front panel with the 45 degree mitered cuts on the ends and in the second shot you can see how they will butt together with the corresponding side panels to eventually form a really snug fit.

I use a product called Construction Quality Liquid Nails to glue the cabinet joins together and then use    2 x  L- Brackets in each corner joint  to stop the joins coming apart and then I let it all sit for a week before adding other internal braces and strengthening parts.

Before I start to join it all together, I always cut the holes in the front panel for the coin door and the plunger as well as the hole for the start button, the hole for the start button is actually only drilled half depth into the panel at the front and the a smaller hole goes all the way through the cabinet just large enough for the shaft diameter of the start button. I discovered this when I re-did a Gorgar cabinet, I had nowhere to screw the metal backing plate of the start button inside the cabinet as I had drilled the entire front hole size all the way through the cabinet, it was a pain to fix it and my Gorgar button is still a little sticky these days due to that error.

Above are some shots of the front panel after cutting the holes. I use a Jigsaw on high speed with a fine cutting blade to make these cuts and like everything with this project, measure twice and cut once AND cut slowly and carefully and it will all turn out fine, I always use a straight edge to run the jigsaw against while making a cut - I cut nothing "freehand".

Obviously I mark it all out based on measurements from the original cabinet that I am copying from and that is the advantage in having the original box there as well.

It's always a good idea to make sure that the door parts all fit and the door works before fitting the panels together, that door needs a bit of polishing work too, that'll come later.

The next thing that I do is run a good bead of the Liquid Nails down the joins and stick it all together, I normally do 1 join, then, 1 hour later come and install the L Brackets ( the joins will hold together perfectly on their own for an hour or so) and then repeat that process until I have the whole 4 sides joined together.

And below is a shot of the cabinet nearly all joined up with only the rear panel to be added in, remember the rear panel is a flat joint, not angled at 45 degree's like the front joints so it is really easy to fit into place. Also remember to get your plywood cut so that the rear panel fits INSIDE the side panels so that you do not see joins at the back of the side of your new pinball cabinet.

You will see that I also run a level across the top at this point, this is because you should always make sure the tops of the sides are level so that the glass will sit in properly later. If you happen to get a bad job done by the supplier who cuts your plywood panels to shape, you can fix any errors at the bottom of the cabinet so that the top remains perfect. I actually had a 5mm difference in the side panels of this cabinet so I allowed the rear end to have an error that no-one will ever see once the legs are installed.