Below you will see some shots of the harness fitted to the new PF, to do it I simply placed the whole cardboard sheet with the whole harness on it , on top of the new PF, then, like a magician, I simply removed the cardboard by sliding it out to one side while holding the harness roughly in place where it should be. The end result was that about 90% of the components landed exactly where they were to be screwed into place.

The only problem that I encountered was my own fault, because I had placed all the screws and mounts in place in the new PF and what happened was some of the wiring in the harness kept getting caught on the screws BUT it wasn't that much of a hassle, I just had to find where the harness was caught and lift it over the screw it was caught on- this happened about 10 times.

Before I screwed things down , I went around and re-soldered all of the wires that I had labeled earlier, so now that everything was re-wired all I had to do was put everything back in the correct spot.

Taking the time to label everything earlier was a Godsend, it made it absolutely simple to screw everything back down.

The top half of this PF is a little bit busier than the bottom, there was more to do up here as this machine has 5 pop bumpers and 2 eject holes all in the top section. At this point I also replaced all the coils sleeves and filed all the PF switches with a flex-stone contact file from Steve Young's Pinball Resource that cost me $0.70c !!

And here it is- the underside completely finished.

I took my time to do this, I started the strip in Mid Feb 2005 and finished the underside in Mid March 2005. It was nowhere near as difficult as I had assumed it was going to be BUT it was extremely time consuming. At a guess I would have spent a total  of about 15+ hours doing all the work you have just read about and I still have to go on now and do the topside of this playfield !

I also pulled the target assemblies apart while I did this underside swap and cleaned them thoroughly and replaced the target stickers as well as replacing the flipper EOS switches too.

I hope that I have covered a PF swap in enough detail and now I say , if you are considering this job for the first time then just go for it.

Here's a few images of the targets getting replaced and the top of the new PF as well.

I started the top side of the PF swap just because I was on a roll today and just wanted to keep on going so I started to do the bottom half of the PF.

One thing I forgot to say earlier was that by having the side rails installed early in the swap I was able to drop all the bulls-eye and slingshot switches and these drop targets straight down in their holes when re-installing them on the underside of the PF and screw them back into place easily with the new PF upside down on my table, so that was also a good idea.

I had found images of the Targets for Time warp years ago on the net, they were a little untidy so I "nudged them up a bit" in Photoshop and then printed them onto a gloss card thickness paper and covered them with a clear contact film like Mylar for protection.

I did got all of the lower half back together and the flippers set in place.

At the time of this PF swap I had no blue rubbers so I painted the flippers, I have since found NOS blue rubbers and installed them and you will see them in later images.

I have the apron off and I have re-sprayed it and I am working on the instruction cards right now, that will all be put back in place soon.

The top left plastic was another "average" part of the original playfield design and I saw no reason why it needed that big chunk of plastic hanging off the edge that covers the top eject hole.

As you can see, the clear plastic has gone yellow with age ...................so I decided to cut it off.

In this next shot you can see the plastic installed WITHOUT that old yellow piece hanging out to the right hand side.

I used a jigsaw to cut the plastic and I was very careful NOT to let the 'bed" of the jigsaw touch the plastic as I cut, I then then sanded the edge back to a smooth edge with a Dremel tool and then I  polished the edge with fine sandpaper.

It all took about 10 minutes.

By the way - that is NOT a mark in the blue part of the PF , it is a scrap of drilled out plywood  that got into the photo.

To see some nice final shots of this playfield go to my next link